Opinions will vary on these topics. Front end has big bearings, New gauges, Quick change rear, 4 new shocks and . They need to be rolling with not a lot of slippage, especially when the track is slick. And lots of bonkers stuff. Frank: When it is slippery, if you are on the brakes too hard or on the gas too hard, all you are doing is sliding the car. Spring split at the front also has less affect and has more influence on entry. Just remember to use less throttle so you don't spin the tires, because that means losing traction. In a nutshell, you could more easily sense the limits of the car with less caster, so while more caster might in theory give you more grip, the point at which traction is exceeded is different than where you feel feedback in the wheel or some such. The last alignment trick used to get a front-wheel drive car to play nice is rear toe. This does two things: It lowers the rear moment center and raises the car's CG. For more information, call IMCA at 319-472-2201. I wouldn'twant anything that tail happy on a road course as it does change directions rapidly. You've got to find what works for you. The competition here is so good you really have to be smooth and on top of your game to keep those lap times down consistently. Near the bottom of the front struts are two large bolts. Details. Both sides must have vertical bracing from top to bottom door bars. EXHAUST: Exhaust manifold must be unaltered, OEM for year, make and model of car used. The sooner the car rotates, the sooner the throttle can be applied. What the car came withis 1400k/800lbs in front which seems too stiff. For example, if a tire is using 80 percent of its maximum available grip for cornering, it can only use 20 percent for acceleration. An "easy-up shock" is a common term used to describe a shock with stiff compression and soft rebound. Mr. Holt has been helping 4 cyl cars go faster since I first met him in the mid 70s. This is great for smoky burnouts but not so great for getting around a track quickly. Answered above. Performance urethane/polyurethane to the rescue! Ok so now you picked out a car. I'm thinking that if you decrease caster / minimize it, it would have the effect of keeping the chassis flatter when turning. and instal a racing chip in the computor, and run 2% Nitro in the fuel. But as you turn that steering wheel, you have to pull the throttle up in order to accommodate that string, thats pulling the pedal back. The "slide job" works well here because as you go under a car coming into the corner, you pass and inevitably slide in front of the passed car. The track has now dried up and the black is mostly gone. That is probably why rear steer (left tire forward) is sometimes so helpful. McDowell is currently both an active driver as well as running his own driving school, where he spends a lot of time helping young racers to find more success from the driver's seat. You should use four to six bolts to hold the seat down. So now, you only get about half as much acceleration force and half as much cornering force before youre outside the edge of that circle. With camber in it allows the tire to stay in contact with the road surface longer and turn the car better. I would call these "marathon posts" LOL! Must be securely mounted with positive terminal covered. 0kodX9Z3Bi2nO6OQTe5bVJSzO5kwBxYM7bL09OpJq1vrj58DBe72aytO2biUT45z. Now softer tires can be used with some siping. In autocross, additional caster does lead to valid camber gain as the steering inputs are much greater on smaller, tighter course. No aftermarket racing heads. Dry, a condition in which the top layer is now drying out and losing material in the form of sand: 0.9 to 1.1 g's (loss of grip is now getting substantial, and the car will not turn well or get bite off the corners. Posts: 122. I would use a 1997 car and engine, install pistons from a 1998 2.2, to raise the compression ratio, OR have a 1998 2.2 and install the 1997 head and intake,,, either one will raise your compression ratio! Secondly, because were having to use the throttle to counteract the rotation of the car, we will be going to throttle long before corner apex, increasing the amount of time the car is accelerating. I don't think enough people think for themselves to actually test and find out (and it certainly is a pain to do, so I understand it). You will need to keep a lot of information on your tires. You have to keep your momentuum up and try to run in the outside groove to keep your speed up. What Is Front-Wheel Drive? | YourMechanic Advice 12. This is how you adjust the camber and toe in the rear on the Mopar cars. also here is the spartan speedway message board links, http://spartanspeedway.com/forum/index.php. 2 talking about this. The back tires are just along for the ride. Another option is to take some stagger out just as a quick adjustment. 9. A typical setup might be: LF = 400; RF = 450; LR = 225 (400 pounds swing arm); RR = 275 (500 pounds swing arm); 56 percent left-side weight; Panhard bar at 11 inches left and 12 inches right, mounted to the right side of the chassis; and no front Ackermann with zero rear steer. I've auto-crossed FWD for decades and the most SOTP effect with more (positive) caster is steering feel as it relates to the self-centering effect, if both sides are equal. So. Cage must be electric welded. I've always been a momentum driver, so that plays a big role in to the way that we tune the car.